Rourke's Random Musings

OFF THE BEATEN PATH IN NAPA WITH SLAVA AND JIMMY - Napa, CA (5/13/2006)

Slava had been to Napa before, but only seen Route 29, so we decided to take him to some wineries a little further from the crowds. We ended up at highly recommended places all just off the Silverado Trail and had a nice, relaxing day in Napa.

Outpost

Our first stop of the day was Outpost. Frank’s directions were great, and we found our way up to the winery without problem. We stepped out of the car and were all dumbstruck by the view. Outpost has the best views in all of Napa, better even than Pride. Frank graciously showed us around and talked extensively about the vineyards and the winery. Frank was very generous with his time, spending quite a while with us talking about the wines, vineyards, and answering all of our questions. The just-finished winery is interesting in its space efficiency and design. The Outpost Zin is Jen’s favorite, and the only Zin over $30 we buy. Jen was quite concerned when Frank told us that the Zin vineyard has Phylloxera and that in the relatively near future they’d need to be replaced with new vines. Frank explained that this would be done in stages and that while the production would be lower during some years, the quality of the Zin wouldn’t suffer. The focus at Outpost is obviously on quality. A number of the vineyards are fairly new and Outpost has been selling the fruit or juice off rather than making a wine from those vines until the quality is where they’d like to see it. All four of us then tried the Zin and Cab with Frank before having lunch on the (currently dirt) deck-area in front of the hospitality center. Afterwards, Fredrik, who we’d met earlier during our tour of the winery, brought out a sample of the 04 Grenache. Jimmy and I both enjoyed the Granache and ended up going back into the cellar and tasting the Petit Syrah components with Fredrik. Fredrik was also very generous with his time and we all ended up talking to him for a while. He was even generous enough to call ahead to Neyer to tell them we’d be late. He also gave directions so we could the back way to Neyer. Without slighting Neyer or Biale, everyone’s favorite visit was -by far- Outpost, in large part due to the hospitality shown us by Frank and Fredrik.

• 2004 Outpost Zinfandel - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain A bit brighter and more red-fruit focussed than I’m used to from Outpost, but otherwise very similar to the 2003 I’ve had and loved a few times. Already has a powerful nose of fruit and spice and a great, smooth, silky finish. Not as tannic as the Cab, but still quite tannic. Again, these are silky smooth tannins that you feel but don’t really taste. I’d give this a 91 now, and can only imagine it will be better on release.
• 2004 Outpost Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain Barrel sample. Muted nose, but huge mouthfull of layer after layer of fruit. This is a thick, powerful mountain wine. Not distinctly oaky or woody, even at this early stage. Piles and piles of silky smooth tannins. Sweet, smooth finish. I’d rate this is a 93 now, and normally I find barrel samples nearly undrinkable. I will buy all of this that I can.
• 2005 Outpost Grenache - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain Really interesting. Totally different from the Zin and Cab, and different from any other Outpost. This is apparently made in a “Burgundian” style, and is a lighter wine. Fruit, but also some more savory elements in this.
• 2005 Outpost Petite Sirah - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain I was fortunate enough to taste the three different clones / part of the vineyard that will end up in this wine. All were quite different, but all excellent. I’ll definately pick up some of this wine when it’s released.

Neyers

Neyers is tucked away, well off the beaten path, alongside Lake Hennessey on Sage Canyon Road. Pheobe met us as we pulled up at the winery and took us on a quick tour of the facility. In contrast to Outpost, Neyers buys all their fruit. Neyers also has a much higher production, with an output around 15,000 cases. In the cellar there were two things of note: the Syrah is made with whole clusters and they have quite a few open top fermenters with an automated punch down machine. The Chardonnay does go through malo, but is aged on the lees in inert barrels. The lees are stirred using propeller-like devices in a pretty labor intensive process. After the tour we tasted through the wines with Pheobe while sitting outside on the deck. While the view wasn’t as nice as Outpost, Neyers is still on a beautiful property and is pleasantly quiet.

• 2004 Neyers Chardonnay El Novillero Carneros - USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros Surprisingly good. Bright, clean, minerally. No oak/wood taste. I liked this more than I have any of the White Burgs I’ve tried recently. I’d compare this favorably with a Grgich Hills or a Brewer-Clifton Chard. Pheobe said the “Napa Valley” Chard was similar, but the “Carneros District” and “Thieriot” would be heavier and more buttery. This is certainly worth the money, and a good find. Apparently Neyers ages their Chards on the lees and stirs them with an odd propeller-like device. (92 pts.)
• 2004 Neyers Syrah Old Lakeville Road - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast Sprice, some black fruit, indescript earth. Some hints of savory flavors. Smooth. Dense and thick, but seemed less structred. A little flabby? I wouldn’t purchase this. (88 pts.)
• 2003 Neyers Cabernet Sauvignon Neyers Ranch - Conn Valley - USA, California, Napa Valley Very green and herby. Lighter. Some tannic, and not sweet or smooth tannins. Short finish. Wouldn’t not purchase. Least favorite of the Neyers wines. (86 pts.)
• 2003 Neyers Merlot Neyers Ranch - Conn Valley - USA, California, Napa Valley Red and dark fruits, some earth. Lots of dust on the midpalate. Not so strutured - dull? Some herby flavors, but in a good way. Not a bad value, but I’d choose the Engel Family for $10 more. (88 pts.)
• 2004 Neyers Zinfandel Pato Vineyard - USA, California, Contra Costa County This is almost a 90… but there was some heat that took away from the pleasant fruit. Thick, Turley-esque. Interesting, really. There are better Zins (to me) for $30. (89 pts.)

Robery Biale

Still off the beaten path, though much closer to the city of Napa, Biale was the largest operation we visited. Tasting here was a more normal tasting-bar experience, though our host was very knowledgeable and very friendly.

• 2001 Robert Biale Zinfandel Monte Rosso Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley Bright, acidic. Very dry. Red fruit. Not sweet at all. Sharp finish. (89 pts.)
• 2004 Robert Biale Zinfandel Old Crane Ranch - USA, California, Napa Valley Strawberries. Red fruit, but lush and almost sweet. Smoth, sweet finish. Not horribly tannic, but not flabby. Structured. Turley-esque in mouthfeel. (91 pts.)
• 2004 Robert Biale Zinfandel Black Chicken - USA, California, Napa Valley Darker, more tannic than the Old Crane. Black fruit, peppery. More complex, interesting. I liked this, but at this price its up against the likes of Outpost and the single vineyard Turley wines. (92?) (91 pts.)
• 2003 Hill Climber Vineyards Syrah Pilgrimage - USA, California, Napa Valley All fruit. A very zinny Syrah. Very tannic. Some earth. Thick. (89 pts.)
• 2003 Hill Climber Vineyards Syrah Monte Rosso Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County A little bit of windex on the nose at first, but all dark fruit and spice later. Pepper. Thick, heavy feel. Jen’s favorite of the Syrahs. (90 pts.)
• 2002 Hill Climber Vineyards Syrah Rolly Akers - USA, California, North Coast Meaty, more varietally correct. Bit of barnyard funk. Sweet and fruity on the palate. Sweet, clean finish. Thick, tannic. (88 pts.)

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